Bagan part 2 - Myanmar

Nagayon Temple
According to tradition, the name of the temple-Nagayon, means '"Protected by the Naga Serpent'- from an incident in Kyansittha's life. Once, when he was fleeing from the wrath of his predecessor, King Sawlu (1077-1084), he was watched over by a young naga while he slept. The place then became the site of the Nagavon. The naga, a serpent, sometimes human in form, is a part of the Buddhist tradition, (the protection given to the Buddha by the Naga king Mucalinda during the seven days of a violent storm). Myanmar tradition has many legends of Naga, even one becoming a Queen. . An inscription also records that Kyansittha made an offering to the naga in the building of his palace.  The fresco’s are worn but still amazing, you need a torch to walk around inside (which a sand painting man lent us) and every wall is still covered with remanents of paintings.

                                                                

Ape Yadana Phaya (Abeyadana) built by King Kyanzittha in 11 century though a late inscription attributes it to his chief queen. It is believed to mark the spot where Abeyadana, his wife, came and waited for him when he was hiding near the place now marked by the Nagayon temple during one of his flights from the wrath of King Sawlu. In plan it resembles the Nagayon. It is one of those monuments famous for their fine frescos especially the inner wall which depicts Maha-yana, one of the earliest images of the Ramayana found in Myanmar. The perforated windows are also really famous.

Legend: Kyansittha, while fleeing from his elder brother, King Sawlu, had planned to meet his lover, Abeyadana, where the temple now stands. She was late so he wandered off and fell asleep nearby. When she found him, an enormous naga (legendary snake) was hooded over the sleeping Kyansittha protecting him. She screamed, waking Kyansittha, and the naga was frightened away. Kyansittha took the naga's action to be a sign that he would become king. When he finally ascended the throne in 1084, he built the temple, naming it after Abeyadana, now his wife. It houses a large seated Buddha. Around the corridors are many small Buddha images in the niches, and there are also some good Mahayanist and Hindu frescoes.)

                          

    

Shwesandaw Pagoda is where you can get 360 degrees view.  This pagoda of the 'golden relic' was one of the first to be built by Anawrahta. He is said to have constructed it in 1057, following his successful campaign against Thaton, in order to enshrine a hair relic of the Buddha that had been given to him by the ruler of Bago (Pegu). Following an ancient Pyu tradition, the stupa is situated outside the city walls, where it provides spiritual protection for Bagan. Four separate square terraces give the Shwesandaw a pyramidal form, and formerly there were figures of the Hindu elephant god Ganesha in all fours.

                                  

and a video of Nicki showing the view of Bagan

Thabeik Hmauk seems to be a little known temple, but very cool to climb up from the inside and get an amazing view!

                                       

Dhamayangi Temple is a cave temple and viewed from a distance its shape is like an Egyptian pyramid.  Largest of all the temples in Bagan, the Dhammayan as it is popularly known was built during the reign of King Narathu (1167-1170 who built the temple during his ruthless three years). Narathu, who came to the throne by assassinating his father Alaungsithu and his elder brother, presumably built this largest temple to atone for his sins.  Almost all the entire innermost passage has been intentionally filled with brick rubble centuries ago. Three out of the four Buddha sanctums are also filled with bricks. It’s said (by locals) that King Narathu was such a bastard that the workers ruined it after his assassination in 1170.  The remaining western shrine features two original side-by-side images of Gautama and Maitreya, the historical and future Buddhas. The interlocking, mortarless brickwork at Dhammayangyi is said to rank as the finest in Bagan. although the highest terraces and hidden stairways leading to them are now off limits to visitors.

Legend: After murdering his own king father, Narathu ascended the throne of Bagan and due to that, he built this temple. It is said that Narathu oversaw the construction himself and that masons were excecuted if a needle could be pushed between bricks they had laid. But he never completed the construction because he was assassinated before the completion. It was said that he was displeased by the Hindu rituals and one of them who made those rituals was the Indian princess (who had been given as a tribute to Narathu’s father) who was the daughter of King Pateikkaya (a tributary of Bagan) so he executed her, the other theory is Narathu raised the princess to Queen after killing his father, but soon discovered her hatred towards him so he killed her with his own hands in one of his episodes of violence. The princess's father wanted revenge for his innocent daughter and sent 8 officers in the disguise of Brahmans and assassinated Narathu in this temple! 

‘The remarkable feature of this temple is the excellent technique of brick-laying. Although only mud mortar was used, the massive structure has survived several earthquakes of the past centuries due to its best brick-laying method. Bricks were laid so close and neat that they looked as if they were just one piece. The seams are not visible and it is said that even a needle could not pierce them. The same is true of the fencing brick walls.
Sandstones were cut with scientific precision in the shape of wedge and carpenter's square and used in the spans, arches, and at the corners of the walls.  There is a big Buddha Image of hard stone in the eastern devotional hall. It was sculpted out of a single piece.’ ancientbagan.com

                                            

Sulamani Guphaya 1183

"In order that men might follow the Path and reach fruition in Nivana, he built a great work of merit with two hollow storeys and called it Sulamani." records the act of merit by King Narapatisithu (1174-1211) .
The chronicles also record how Narapatisithu settled on a site for the temple. It is said that once, when Narapatisithu was returning from climbing Mount Tuywin, he chanced upon a ruby shining radiantly in a hollow. He exclaimed, "It is a sign for me to make a work of merit here! "

Sulamani represents some of Bagan's finest ornamental work which are carved stucco on mouldings, pediments and pilasters. These are today in fairly good condition. Glazed plaques around the base and terraces are also still visible.
Buddha images face the four directions from the ground floor; the image at the main eastern entrance sits in a recess built into the wall. The interior passage around the base is painted with fine frescoes from the Konbaung period, and there are traces of earlier frescoes. Stairways lead very close to the top of this temple, from where the views are superb but you are no longer allowed up there.

The fresco’s were some of the best we have seen with massive painted Buddha’s and scenes of life.

                                                                                                                 

Here’s a video of the squirrels that live in the temple! (you may have to enlarge video to see them well)

And then that was it for temples!  We had met a lovely guy whose family makes Lacquer work (at least it was a little different than sand paintings) so we went to see how they make lacquer wear, and of course buy some!  It actually was really interesting, involving n14 processes of lacquer, some including ground animal bone, black rock, red rock and then the etchings!  If you wanted more than one colour then it took more days and extra etchings!  Each lacquer coating had to be put underground at certain temperatures before they can sand and start the next coat.  (the original object is made out of horse hair, soft bamboo or hard bamboo)  By the time they finish, the object can withstand any hot or cold temperture and is hard as!

Lacquer work