Phonsavan–Valley of the Jars

We left Vang Vieng to head to Phonsavan, which is the capital of Xieng Khuang province, population 57 000.  It’s the new capital as the last one was bombed.  However 80% of Laos people live in villages not in ‘cities’.  First photo is the view where we had lunch on our 5 hour drive, second photo is Phonsavan's main street, third photo is a view shot of the city.

         

We organised a car to take us to the famous Valley of the Jars, then the old capital and a Hmong village.  We stopped at the information centre in town first.

         

As you can see, they use bomb shell casing for decoration, as there are so many.  I didn’t realise NZ did all the UXO clean-up (looking for unexploded mines) a local told us at school, high school and university they all learn about NZ and he was able to tell us all about the Kiwi bird etc.  He said NZ is thought of very highly here!
But what I really dragged Andre here for was the Jars!  Some archaeologists say they are 1000BC, others say they are 500BC – 500AD.  The culture that created them has been lost in time, and the reason for them.  Archaeologists say they were funeral urns (no evidence to back this up) and locals say they were for wine.  I know which theory I prefer!  There are many sites, we only went to one site which has 334 jars over 25 hectares with the size being around 2.5m diameter and 2.57m high weighing 600kg to 1 tonne each.

         

                        

There was also lots of bomb craters, the Americans dropped hundreds of bombs daily on this town during the Vietnam war…. 

    

We also watched the UXO metal detectors at work (most sites have not been all cleared, it’s really important to stick to the path when wandering around) we even heard one go off!

    

After the jar site, our driver stopped to let us see noodles being made.  They are made out of rice into a paste, cooked very quickly on a huge wok (just enough so they are malleable) put onto a big metal rolling pin, draped on bamboo trays and set in the sun to dry.  In the evening they are put through a couple of rollers to cut the thin noodles.

    

This is the transport most locals in all the towns in Laos we have encountered get round on, half tractor and half go-cart

This is the old capitals old Stupa (religious monument) That Foun, built in 1576 (same time as That Luang in Vientiane – see earlier post), it is said it was erected to cover the ashes of Lord Buddha.  Yes it was bombed, but still looks pretty good.  Next photo is the bombed hospital the French built 1916 (apparently it only treated French, not locals) and the third photo was Wat Phiawat temple built in 1372, after bombing only the pillars and Buddha survived.

         

We stopped off on the way to see a water buffalo pen made from bomb casings

And then to a Hmong village along with a look at how they grind their corn! Our car driver (standing with the grinder) told us Hmong tribe were originally from China, and they were people the Chinese didn’t want, so they sent them here (sound like Australia???) and originally they did slash and burn farming for their poppies, which was all they grew.  He also said they are allowed 2 wives.  It sounds like Lao (lowland Lao people) and the Hmong do not always have a harmonious relationship.  The villages usually have around 5 families and have secret farms for their cattle and vegetables!  We did notice, although the villages look almost prehistoric, they have satellite tv!

         

Finally it was back into town to book our bus to Luang Prabang for the next morning, and lunch at crater restaurant!  (shell casing again, as a fence)